Susan was up in Massachusetts but Melissa wanted to do part of the run and our mutual friend Lisa wanted to join us. It seems her birthday was this weekend and she wanted to "run her age" which in this case meant 39 miles. She's an ultra runner and I know she does this sort of thing, but I was still very impressed when I had finished, feeling suitably tired and beat, when she said goodby (without joining us for brunch) and was off to do the remaining 19 miles of her run.
For this run I had a yen to get back to An Béal Bocht (), that favorite destination of ours in Kingsbridge, but how to get there? It occured to me when planning another run that there were portions of the Old Croton Aqueduct (aka the OCA) that I had never run. Namely the portion in the Bronx from High Bridge to Van Cortlandt Park, and the portion that goes east-west across Yonkers and connects the portion going through Van Cortlandt and Tibbetts Brook Parks (which I had run numerous times) with the north-south portion from Yonkers up though Hastings, Dobbs Ferry, Irvington and points north (which I had run occasionally). In fact the last time I had been on these two sections was some 40 years ago, when I had hiked the whole aqueduct from Croton to the New York Public Library. So, given I had two willing accomplices, it looked like we had a plan.
Don't know what the Old Croton Aqueduct is? There are lots of web sites out there, you might start with these: , , , and .
he first part of today's run was to get from Central Park to High Bridge Park, where the first part of the OCA in Manhattan is an actual trail (as opposed to lying under Fifth Avenue or Amsterdam Avenue). We've run up there numerous times, including two weeks ago (see the blog post for March 24th) so I won't go into the details. Suffice it to say, the beautiful weather and the early Saturday morning hour made these first 7 miles a pleasure. I would also point out that besides running on the aqueduct in High Bridge Park to High Bridge itself (the original crossing of the aqueduct across the Harlem River, now, alas, closed to pedestrians) we continued on to Washington Bridge (no, not the GWB) which affords a route across the river to where we could pick up the OCA in the Bronx.
One slight complication was that the "Scotland 10K" an NYRR sponsored race (= "crowded"), was just going by the Boat House (our starting point) when we got going. To avoid the East Drive and the throngs of runners pouring down it, we detoured slightly up through part of the Ramble, the Great Lawn and around the Reservoir, up over the Dog Track and finally out the northwest corner of the park. Note to self: it's always a good idea to take a different route once in a while. Don't get stuck in a route-rut.
he Bronx, from High Bridge up to Van Cortlandt Park is the most developed section of the original aqueduct route of all, save for Manhattan itself. But I have found that neighborhoods that were created while the aqueduct was actually in use (up till about the mid 20th century) accomodated the route. They grew up with it, so to speak. In contrast, Manhattan tends to keep rebuilding itself constantly, so old artfacts can be quickly forgotton and obliterated. Additionally, major highways (I-95, The Major Deegan Expressway, etc.) tend to make no accomodation whatsoever and just go barrelling through. I-95 in fact does go barreling through, crossing the Harlem River just north of the old High Bridge. So any hope of finding remnants of the aquaduct in that quarter mile or so north of High Bridge in the Bronx is pretty small. But just above that, the Washington Bridge crossing — which carries street traffic over the river and delivers it to University Avenue — is much more hopeful. Old maps show the route goes from the Bronx side of High Bridge up between Undercliff and University Avenues till it hits a little park just south of I-95. Then it disappears and reappears just north of the mish-mash of highway entrances and exits and follows along (under) University Avenue to West Tremont Avenue, and turns slightly to the right and goes up practically intact to Van Cortlandt Park. So that is where we ran.
After about 4 long blocks on University Ave. we came to West Tremont Avenue, and there ahead, just beyond a side street was a playground with what looked like the aqueduct heading north from the back. The playground was named "Aqueduct Lands Playground" and a map of the aqueduct was actually set into the pavement of the playground! Wow, what a great way to start on the route. But alas, the back of the playground had a locked gate! There was just no getting onto the aqueduct itself. Now why would they build the playgroud named "Aqueduct Lands" complete with map, and then lock the very thing it's all about? We could only hope this was temporary and turned back and followed University to the north, with a solid phalanx of buildings blocking us from the pathway. Finally after a bit under a half mile, we got to West Burnside Avenue and all was made right. The locked segment was sitting there to the south of Burnside behind a fence, but to the north a broad stone staircase led up to the aqueduct. The level of the aqueduct was about 15 or 20 feet above the street, so we could only assume there was a viaduct (bridge) here originally. Google concurs ( ) and says it was removed sometime in the 1930s and the street was widened. The water was rerouted into what is called an inverted siphon — pipes that go down, under the street, and then back up on the other side. The water pressure pushes the flow down across and up again.
The 4 or 5 segments that followed were delightful. All a little different but all just beautiful with the grass and trees and flowers coming into bloom. And somehow it suited the neighborhood — slightly worn pavement, slightly littered but not trashy. In short it looked "lived in". I can imagine a bit later in the days kids playing hopscotch, and maybe in the evening folks sitting on the benches. Start the slideshow and check out the pictures. You might call it "Bronx Idyllic".
The path ended at Kingsbridge Road with the Kingsbridge Armory across the street. The aqueduct lies under Reservoir Avenue for 2 blocks
as we get to the . The reservoirs was built in the 1880s for the New Croton Aqueduct. The old aqueduct travels in the space
between Goulden Avenue and reservoir. Once we were past the reservoir, Van Cortlandt Park was in site and so ends this part of our run.
he section of the OCA that goes through Van Cortlandt Park and further up through Tibbetts Brook Park in Yonkers was the one section that is totally familiar to me. I have run this section alone or with friends numerous times, often as a loop with the Putnam Rail Trail which parallels the OCA. But to my great surprise, there were things in the works on this section that I never thought I would see. The Parks Department seems to be fixing things that I have noticed many times which I thought would never be fixed — such as the near washout near the city line, or the exposed section of the aqueduct itself (a brick and stone construction) a bit further south. And they seem to be opening out an inaccessible section east of the Mosholu Parkway and southeast of the Major Deegan Expressway, long lost in brambles and cut off by a golf course. Of course, cynics that we are, we assumed they were just going to pave the whole thing, as they plan to do to the Putnam Rail Trail. But after reading the information carefully, I think that no, they don't intend to pave it — but they do plan to repave some of the access paths to get to it. Read the info and check out the map on the left and see what you think. Unfortunately I couldn't find the detailed Parks Department plan on the net, but perhaps it's out there. One thing going for it is that the OCA is a National Historic Landmark, so that may offer some protection. The , a non-profit advocacy group, does not seem alarmed by the project, so let's hope for the best. If you click on the photo above on the right and watch the slideshow, you will see signs of the on-going work. Ironically, the exposed section (shown in the slideshow), which will be covered over for protection from the elements (and vandals) gives an interesting view of the orginal construction. It's stone and brick (and I think there's a layer of concrete inside) and it's absolutely amazing that it appears to be in such good shape after 175 years!
As for the run, it was delightful. Ignoring the construction fences and the truck, this section is the only one of the whole aqueduct that passes through undeveloped woodland, and that includes all the route up through Westchester County to Croton. This section alone gives you the feeling of what the area was like in the 1830s.
After crossing the city line, we said goodbye to Melissa who headed down through Tibbetts Brook Park (in Yonkers). She was heading back along the Putnam Rail Trail and would meet us for brunch.
Lisa and I ran the rest of the way to the end of Tibbetts Brook Park and got onto the streets briefly to get to Yonkers Avenue. Interestingly, just before
leaving the park we passed a gatehouse. These were located at strategic points along the route to allow overflow to be discharged in cases where flood
conditions might threaten the aqueduct. And you will notice they are located above streams, which would allow the overflow to be safely discharged. There's
another one in Van Cortland Park near the city line. But right after ths Tibbetts' gatehouse there is another building, of rather newer construction. This
is a structure that controls the New Croton Aqueduct, which was built in the 1880s to supplement the old one. It's largely underground so signs of it
are seldom noticed. At this point, the New Croton Aqueduct crosses under the Old Croton Aqueduct. Cool!
he last section of our run was a big question mark to me. The section through the neighborhoods of the Bronx was much as I had remembered it from 40 years ago with perhaps some improvement in maintenance. The Parks Department has charge of it and except for that closed section, it was in good shape. But the east-west portion through Yonkers was definately flaky 40 years ago. The route seemed to snake behind run down buildings and was little more than an alley. But the State had just taken over the right-of-way (in1968) so there was hope.
The first portion, along Yonkers Avenue was never a distinct path. It follows along mostly on the south side of the avenue and of course there is a huge gap where the Saw Mill River Parkway cut through. I remember back then just hiking along across the road cuts and across the overpass and just hoping we'd find something on the other side. I'm glad to say it's better now.
After we passed under the Putnam Rail Trail and along side of the Dunwoody Golf Course we came to the Saw Mill. Well, we knew that was there, but on the other side, at Prescott Street, there was a big granite stone monolith with the letters OCA chiselled on the side. The aqueduct had survived years of neglect!
The aqueduct here resembles the Bronx section somewhat but the pavement is more worn and the litter is definately more trashy. The state had aparently reclaimed the right-of-way, put in some monuments and signage but forgot to pick up the trash. Instead of "Bronx Idyllic" I would call it "Yonkers Shabby". But one spot stood out 40 years ago and if anything stands out more today, and that's the Nepperhan Viaduct (). Originally constructed to cross the Nepperhan River (now the Saw Mill River) it was over 100' high with two culverts for the river and a 20' wide archway for a country road. The road archway was widened to 50' in the 1880s to accomodate a busy Nepperhan Avenue, and again in 1985 a whole new archway was built on the wast side of the valley for a much more active Nepperhan Avenue, now a 4 lane divided highway. I'm sure if the state had not taken it over in 1968 and the U.S. had not named it a National Historic Landmark, they would have just blasted through the old viaduct to widen the road. But the state did, and the U.S. did, so they didn't. And it's just beautiful. If you do this run for no other reason, do it to see this vaiduct. My picture doesn't do anything like justice to the structure. My, but I do go on, sorry.
After crossing the viaduct, we crossed north of a ball field and eventually came out to Ashburton Avenue where the path ended. A block later, where North Broadway crosses Ashburton, the aqueduct hangs a right and heads north, once again a dedicated pathway. That we will save for another day, but today we had a 20 miler to complete and a brunch date with Melissa in Kingsbridge, so we ran down the hill another block and turned left (south) on Warburton. We were done with the aqueduct (for today).
Warburton is a wide urban street with little traffic but unfortunately little shade. It was very sunny and I was getting wilted. But we soon passed the lovely Philipse Manor Hall and the road changed its name to Riverdale Avenue. Now this is a street I was familiar with, although not quite this far north. This portion had a nice winding sidewalk and some shade, but unfortunately a very long hill up to the New York City line. But eventually we came to Mount St. Vincent College on the right and a K-mart across the street. We were back in the Bronx! I went over and got a cold Gatorade which refreshed me big time. We continued on almost a mile to 250th Street and crossed over the Henry Hudson Parkway and entered the exclusive enclave of Fieldston. The highest point in the Bronx lies a short distance beyond and then it was down hill to Fieldston Avenue. Where Fieldston may be the epitome of Riverdale (which is the epitome of the Bronx), Fieldston Avenue is the epitome of Fieldston, if you get my meaning. If you don't quite follow me, check out some of the "modest" houses in the pictures.
But all good things eventually come to an end and we soon passed out of Fieldston into "ordinary" Riverdale, and thence to Kingsbridge, a place much more
my style (and my budget). Around the corner of 238th Street was the An Beal Bocht Cafe where Melissa was waiting for us. It had been a great run
with some great discoveries of new places and routes. I can't wait to get back — but first a few days rest. Please.
Papa Bear